"Manila, Manila, I keep coming back to Manila...." Part 2 - Binondo

A week after the cultural heritage tour, I was back in Manila. This time with my family. 

Binondo at night
Source:  Ramada

Actually, Donya (my mom) and I just hitched with My Brother and his family. We learned that they booked an overnight stay at the Ramada in Binondo. So, I told Donya that if we could find a promo rate, we would be joining them. Using one of my favorite booking sites Agoda (the other one being Booking.com), we got a room with twin beds for Php3,000 all-in. Yes, buffet breakfast and parking included! Ramada Central Manila is the only luxury hotel in Binondo and is in a prime location. Every place we wanted to go to was just a walk a way. The rate we got was quite a steal. Here's another hotel where what you see in the website is the same as what you'll see in real life. 

Tip No. 1:  When using booking sites, they quote lower rates when you use their mobile apps and the amounts are all-in unlike in the website version where taxes and other fees are not yet included.

Tip No. 2:  When you are very sure of your check-in dates, especially when done way ahead of time, rates are lower if you choose the No Cancellation offer. 

Superior Twin
Source:  Booking.com

Tip No. 3:  Bring a lot of patience when going to Binondo.  Expect traffic. 

Tip No. 4:  If you are traveling with a kid (or kids) like us, always bring water and snacks. I think their tummies are programmed to eat at specific times.  At least for my nephew, Theo (and the rest of the kids and adults in our  family), that's the case.

We arrived at Ramada past 12 noon and check-in was not until 2:00 pm so we decided to leave our things at the hotel and have lunch first.

Tip No. 5:  You can actually check in as you arrive and you can arrange with the front desk to store your things first and have them taken to your room when it becomes ready. Just like we did.  

For lunch, we chose Cafe Mezzanine, A Fireman's Coffee Shop. This restaurant is a must visit when in Binondo.  And it's on the same street as the Ramada (next corner). Aside from their good food, their advocacy also deserves two thumbs up.  All their revenue is donated to the Binondo Paco Volunteer Fire Search and Rescue Brigade. So, it is not surprising that there's always a need to wait before one can be seated. But lady luck was smiling on us that day, we were already seated after a few minutes.

Tip No. 6:  When traveling with hungry kids, place their orders first especially if the adults are still "memorizing the menu", I mean, still thinking what to order. This way, the kids can be served earlier. Kids being kids have automatic orders. In Theo's case, he got the Grilled Porky Chop and Mochi Balls.

To say that we were hungry would be an understatement. It was almost 1pm when we had our lunch.  We had the Kamto Soup, Xiao Long Bao, Pork Asado with Adobo Egg, Tofu and my favorite, Kiampong - the paella of the Chinese.  We thought we over-ordered (if there's such a word) but we were able to finish all our orders. 

Rice is life! Kiampong is livelier (toinks!)

When in Binondo, an Eng Bee Tin Chinese Deli is always in sight.  In our case, the Ramada is in between two stores. Before we returned to the hotel, we went to one store to check out the goods.  One of their most prominent advertisements was for the Lava Pao or Salted Egg Yolk Custard Bun.  I told myself that I had to have one.  You see, this custard bun is also being served in upscale Chinese restos but are a bit pricey. Eng Bee Tin's is the budget version.  I had to wait for 15 minutes (they still had to steam it). It was worth the wait. True to its name, the salted egg yolk custard filling was oozing when I halved the bun. The taste was just right for me. 

Lava Love

Because the weather was still hot, we spent the afternoon inside the hotel.  Donya and I waited for the sun to go down a bit. After visiting Binondo Church or the Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo, we headed to Lucky Chinatown.  We hailed public transportation to get to the mall. At first, I thought the fare the driver quoted was stiff because the mall wasn't far.  It was just too hot to walk.  But then I noticed that we were moving a bit slow.  It was then that I realized that his vehicle was a pedicab disguised as a tricycle.  'Told Donya that I probably should have paid him more because I was not a lite passenger to say the least. 

We went around Lucky Chinatown then proceeded to 168 and 999 malls. After a bit of walking around the bargain malls (and Donya buying some tops, checking bags and trying on several pairs of shoes), Donya requested that we go back to Lucky Chinatown because she was already getting dizzy because the place was so crowded. Like mother, like daughter. Since we were still full from our heavy lunch, Donya decided to just have coffee and croissant at French Baker for merienda while I made a quick stop at the supermarket to buy Joy Dishwashing Liquid. Anak ako ng nanay ko e! You see, I always wash the cups & saucers, glasses and cutlery in hotels.  Auntie, calls me OC!

With the sun almost setting and the weather starting to get cooler, we just walked back to the hotel and stayed there until it was time to have dinner. It was almost 9pm and stores were almost closing. Even if it was late, we still felt safe walking around the hotel area.  Because we were not that hungry yet, we decided to explore the streets and look for a restaurant. We saw a restaurant that specializes in seafood. We were told by the lobby attendant that it's on the second floor.  When we got there, we saw the menu and the price! Let's just say that we decided that we were not really in the mood for seafood.  The price of one order is already the total of all the food we had for lunch!  So we went down as quick as we could.  The lobby attendant asked if we didn't like the place, we just said that there was a private party.  That part was true! 

After a few minutes, we were once again back on Ongpin St. Being tired from walking, we decided to have dinner at Chuan Kee Chinese Fastfood.  This is actually the eatery version of Cafe Mezzanine and it's just on the floor below it. 

I always try new stuff when food crawling

Because we were not that hungry, Donya and I just decided to share dinner.  We ordered Kiampong (of course), Honey Pork Kikiam and Black Chicken Soup.  I also ordered a White Fungus Drink. 

Well, I have already mentioned that I love Kiampong.  I found the kikiam too dry for my liking.  San Pablo City's very own Youtofu's Kikiam is still the best for me! The drink and the soup were new experiences for me and they did not disappoint. Both are said to have medicinal properties. If meds are like these, I won't mind taking my meds everyday. Interestingly, when I posted this on my social media accounts, Boslet was watching a show featuring the same black chicken. She said that she couldn't imagine how it gets eaten and then she saw my post. I also caught the same show the following weekend. 

It was time to call it a day and wait for my most anticipated meal - breakfast!

One side of the buffet set up
Source:  Booking.com

My officemates know this, I don't usually eat breakfast, at least not early. But when we're booked at hotels offering buffet breakfast, I can adjust! With the amount we paid, I wasn't really expecting much.  So, I was really happy when I saw the buffet set-up. It was extensive.  Aside from the usual salads &fruits, cold cuts, congee, soup, cheese platter, hot meals, breads & pastries, cereals, egg station, they also have a dimsum station. To top it all, they have the most gracious and polite food attendants. 

These over chocolates!

After breakfast, I decided to burn-off some of the food I had.  Okay, I really wanted to explore the streets and the stores before they get so crowded.  Remember my earlier post, that for me timing is important when shopping?

Tip No. 6:  If you are maarte like me, I mean, not comfortable in stuffy places, know when a place is less crowded. 

Since I've already been to 168 and 999 twice without buying anything, I decided to go there early.  But this time, I used the estero route.  Mind you, must visit restos/ food joints in Binondo are near these esteros. For example the famous Dong Bei Dumpling was along my estero route. Unfortunately, it was still closed when I passed by it. Yes, I was that early!

If you follow my social media accounts, you'll know I have a special affinity to the humble daster. Well, mine are not really daster-daster, they're like the ones you can still wear on a day out. Found my kind of daster at 168 (the ones imported from Bangkok), lots of them.  However, to my surprise, the ones I buy at Amar (you have to be a true blue Pabloy to know this place) are cheaper.  Probably because they also get them straight from Bangkok. 

So while writing this post, it suddenly occurred to me that I did buy something at 168 - a corporate dress which I have not worn because I have forgotten that I have it. Now I remember that I haggled for it with matching, "Sige na kuya, bawasan mo na ang presyo, maganda akong bwena mano!" I was referring to myself, not the luck! Just kidding! Got if for Php600 from the original Php850.  Could be cheaper pero, hello ang daming tela kaya ang kailangan sa akin!

They have other products too like Kikiam

After doing my walking/window shopping, I went back to Ongpin. Dong Bei was still closed. So I searched for the fried siopao.  It was something mentioned to me by one of my colleagues, Francia. It's also always among the must-tries when in Binondo. Using my ever dependable Google Maps, I finally found Shanghai Fried Siopao. How do I describe it? It's like your Kutchay Dumpling reincarnated as a siopao. It's neither asado nor bola-bola. It's pork meat with herbs and the combination works. And it was only Php18/piece when I got it. How is it different from the toasted siopao? Aside from the filling, this is still steamed siopao but the bottom is fried. I think it's the filling that's fried. Would have tasted even better had I eaten it right away but I was still soooo full from breakfast so I only got to eat it during lunch.  It was my early lunch. 

So Hopia is a cookie!

When we think of hopia, Eng Bee Tin's always the first to come to mind. But since it's available almost everywhere, I decided to look for other brands.  In Binondo there's Salazar, Poland and Ho Land, among others.  I decided to go for Ho Land and was surprised that other than hopia of all flavors, they also have the Green Tea Pumpkin Seeds. No need to go to Hong Kong or Macau to get them (or ask those based in the areas to buy us the stuff).  

Try to sip it in powder form using a straw just like Mik-Mik

Another item I bought because it piqued my curiosity was Choc-Nut Chocolate Drink. I was expecting it to have the signature nutty taste of Choc-Nut but it was what it said a chocolate drink. How does it taste? You know Mik-Mik milk chocolate powder? If you do, I know at one point in your lives you tried to add water to it.  That's how it tastes, though a bit chocolatier or as the product claims, chocorrific.

After buying pasalubongs (ang lakas maka-turista), I headed back to the hotel to prepare for check-out.

There it is!

But my exploration of Binondo must-tries did not end there. While I was out exploring on my own, My Brother and My Sister-in-Law also did their own food crawl.  And one of the things they got was the lumpiang sariwa from New Po Heng Lumpia House.  If you'll look for a new establishment, you won't find this lumpia house.  It's an institution already. They're known for their tasty and crisp wrapper and vegetable filling. True enough, I had them when we got home and after two hours on the road, they were still good. My late lunch. 

Carvajal St. would best sum up my Binondo experience. If you will look at the alley, it looks dark, old and worn out. With this impression, you might find it simply not worth exploring or that you wouldn't even dare step into it. If you will let your prejudices get the better of you, you will miss the wonders brought about by exploring Carvajal St. When the stores start to open, the alley comes to life. You see goods that aren't offered in your regular stores. Seeing the scene between store owners and patrons is an interesting experience especially if you are already used to the comfortable, air-conditioned supermarkets. Reminds me a lot of San Pablo weekend market. It will take you back to simpler times. That's what Binondo is like. It may be old but it has character, it has history.  It's a treasure trove of wonders. 

This alley comes alive during store hours

If you have the time, explore Binondo and you might discover new things about the place, our country's history or probably yourself.  As they say, almost all of us are part Chinese. That I am sure of because my great grandfather was from China.  That's why, if my aunts are like Siopao (Chinese-mestizas), I am Toasted Siopao (mestiza lang, chos)!