Saturday, August 27, 2016

#TitaHits: The Titas of Manila Go to Macau

Last 2015, I received a common reminder from family and friends, “Renew your passport!”

For some reason, I was just too lazy to renew my passport.  When I finally decided to do it, there were issues at the DFA (their printing, me thinks) so it took almost three months for my passport to be released. Being “grounded” for the first three quarters of the year, I was rarin’ to fly.

First thing I did was check airline promos. By the way, I have a threshold when it comes to round trip, all-in fares, Php3,000 maximum for short international flights.  Other than trying to save, I consider this as a challenge to myself.

I searched for flights with no definite destination in mind. I ended up choosing Macau via Hong Kong. I’ve been there before with my family but just for a short day trip.  We were based in Hong Kong during that trip. So in the vernacular, it was “bitin”.  The travel period was in December. Winter was just starting.  Perfect.

I thought I would be traveling solo because my regular travel buddies also had their respective trips (US, Europe and Thailand) during the last quarter of 2015.  But my friend, Auntie’s trips to the US and Thailand were official in nature,  so I was able to convince her that she needed a break and she can do it by joining me.

Tip No. 1:  Travel with friends who can tolerate your idiosyncrasies and vice-versa.  Auntie and I have a lot of things in common such as being organized when it comes to trips like this. We plan the littlest detail but with allowance for flexibility.  We’re also both on the conservative side but I am of a louder variety.  But, we differ in risk-taking.  For example, I was willing to fly solo but she wouldn’t. My original plan was enter via Hong Kong and exit at Macau, and I will be staying overnight in Hong Kong, take a ferry to Macau and meet Auntie the following night.  We also booked with different airlines.  But Auntie was not yet ready to fly on her own.  Imagine, she has already been to Southeast Asia, Central Asia, Western Asia and North America and yet she was still not confident to travel on her own.  So I knew I needed to make a plan.  I compared the cost of booking the same flight with her and the cost of my overnight stay in Hong Kong and ferry ticket.  Booking a new ticket was cheaper.  And starting this adventure with my friend is priceless.

The Hotel

With flights booked, it was time to hunt for our hotel.  Macau is composed of four districts – Macau Peninsula (where most visited areas are), Taipa (airport), Cotai (casinos) and Coloane (old macau). 


Source:  Wikitravel 

 Tip No. 2:  When choosing a hotel, consider the following:  your budget and proximity to the places you would like to visit.  This was why we decided to find a hotel in Macau Peninsula. A large section of the place has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  This includes the Ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral, A-ma Temple and Moorish Baracks, among others.

Tip No. 3:  If you won’t be joining tour groups and will do it free and easy, choose a hotel near bus stops.  The front of our hotel, Rio Hotel, was a bus drop off point while at the back, there was a bus pick up point. So even if we were not familiar with the place, we were confident we would be able to go back to the hotel.

Tip No. 4:  Find a hotel where it is safe to walk around even at night especially if you’re arriving late.  Our 720pm flight was delayed for an hour so we arrived in Macau at about 10:30pm. But since we still had to clear immigration and get our baggage, we got out of the airport at almost 11pm. After checking in at the hotel, we were really hungry and it was past 12am.   Although my very kind Uncle (my real-life uncle based in Macau) picked us up from airport and took us to our hotel, he couldn’t stay longer because he had an early morning shift the following day. But because our hotel was in a well-lit and busy area, it was safe to walk around even if it was the first time for us to set out in the area. And being in a busy area, there was a number of restaurants and eateries that were still open. Hunger problems, solved!


Our hotel's lobby
Photo from Rio Hotel
Tip No. 5:  If you expect that you will be exhausted because of your daily activities, pick a hotel where you can rest comfortably at the end of the day.  I know most people will say that you shouldn’t be picky with your hotel because all you’ll really do is sleep and the rest of the day is spent outside. True. That applies especially if you designed your trip to be activity packed and you do not consider relaxing.  But if the purpose of your trip is similar to ours which was to take a break from our daily grind, it should include a good night’s sleep.  If the trip is for you to treat yourself, you deserve some pampering.  And pampering yourself does not have to be expensive.  Go to the next tip.


Would you still want to go out of the hotel?
Photo from Rio Hotel
Tip No. 6:  Use hotel booking sites such as Agoda and Booking.com. They make searching hotels easier. You can also compare prices and check reviews.  And most importantly, you can get deals lower than the published rates of hotels.  They also give you the option to book now and pay later and even cancel free of charge up to a certain number of days before check-in.  So if you see a hotel with a lower rate, you can just book it and cancel your earlier booking free of charge. I must confess, I really monitor the rates for better deals.  It may be tedious but it’s worth it (at least for me).  Weird as it may sound but I enjoy doing it.  We went December so hotels were at the pricey end.  Using the hotel’s published rate, cost for three nights was around Php24,000 – Php25,000.  It was a four-star hotel. But because we used a booking engine, we got ours at about Php15,000. We were really happy with the rate.  But when we saw the hotel, we became even happier.  With the facilities, it was a steal. What you see in the website is what you get in real life.  This was why we usually went out mid-day.  The facilities were really relaxing.  There was even a time when we went out to have breakfast then went back to the hotel to rest again. That’s what you call a break!


I can live inside the bathroom
Photo from Rio Hotel
The Food

While I usually bring my beloved de latas and Skyflakes during my trips, Macau was an exception.  Food was actually one of the reasons I wanted to go back to this Special Administrative Region.  Okay, let me come clean here.  When you put me and Auntie together, chances are, it’s a food trip.

As earlier mentioned, we were very hungry when we arrived. So we went around the vicinity of the hotel. Then we saw this restaurant with patrons having steaming bowls of noodles. We had to try that. Perfect for the cold winter night.


Lobster Noodle Soup at past midnight
Tip No. 7:  Before placing your order, get to know first how many servings a dish makes and match it with your appetite.  The man we saw from outside the window was having the bowl of noodles all too himself. But Auntie and I decided to share one bowl and a rice meal.  When we were served our order, we knew it was going to be an awesome food trip. 

During my earlier trip to Macau, I have just undergone a medical procedure and was advised to limit my meat intake.  And because of that, I didn’t get to try Macau’s Porkchop Bun. So you could have imagined how much I wanted it during this trip. 

Tip No. 8:  Sometimes, lesser known joints offer better products. In Macau, there’s a famous brand of porkchop bun.  I first saw it on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations. So in my trip back to Macau, there was no way I am not having it.  It was okay but nothing special.  Probably, that wouldn’t have been the case had I not tried another bun from a roadside eatery near the hotel. It tasted better.  And it was cheaper.  I had the famous porkchop in one of the casino hotels for around MOP65 while the one I favor was just MOP20.  I don’t know the name of the place, everything was in Chinese.  All I know is their porkchop bun and kutchay dumplings were goooood!


This was how much I love this Porkchop Bun,  The indentation
accidentally made by my thumb was shaped like a heart.

Because we arrived late, we also slept late and automatically we woke up late. It was already brunch for us.  We had it in the eatery mentioned above. And because we were heading to The Ruins of St. Paul's Cathedral, there was no need to eat lunch.

This is just one of the food stalls offering free taste
Photo from Auntie

Tip No. 9:  When in Macau, enjoy the free food.  In Macau’s historic center, you will find Rua do S. Paulo and Rua da Felicidade. These are the areas where snacks are sold and the stores offer a free taste of their offerings such as jerky, peanut candy, almond cake, egg rolls, etc.  This was how we had our “light lunch” through free food tasting. One of the most popular stores is Koi Kei Bakery. I think everywhere we looked they have a store in sight.  Auntie loved their Portuguese Egg Tarts.  Well, she loved the tarts in general.


Obviously, we couldn't wait to eat it.
Photo from Auntie
Having had enough Macanese treats, we explored the less crowded streets and chanced upon a quaint café offering cold desserts. Auntie still had a hangover from her Bangkok trip so we ordered a dessert platter of mangoes and ice cream.  It was literally and figuratively a cool break from the local fare.



Our Mango Dessert Platter
Tip No. 10:  Explore less crowded streets and you might just find a gem.  This was the case during my first visit to Macau. Our guide Kuya Anthony, Senyorito Lakwatsero’s Grand Uncle took us to a small alley just off Senado Square, Travessa Se.  So my food trip with Auntie will not be complete without taking her to this place. Actually, even before our flight left Manila, Driver was already telling us to make sure that we go to that place.  And it was there where Auntie found the “love of her life” at least for this food trip.  At that time, I still haven’t really figured out how it was called. It’s a mixture of skewered fish balls, cheese balls, squid balls, meat balls, sausages, dumplings, beef offal, veggies and tons of other stuff. You choose items you’d like to have which the sellers will cook in a special broth. After less than five minutes, your order will be served together with its special sauce. The sauce is like the curry of the Chinese.  It was a bit on the spicy side but in a good spicy kind of way. Just like me, Auntie was hooked.


These alone could make me go back to Macau
Dinner was My Uncle's treat.  He was supposed to take us at hotpot stall frequented by locals. After a bit of shopping with his family, we proceeded to the place which was off the tourist beaten path.  The line was long. But since my super cute cousin Spider Boy (he’s 4) was with us, we opted to go to a Macanese eatery instead of queuing with the crowd. We dined family-style.

Tip No. 11:  Try a spot where the locals go and if there’s a long line, the better.  After dinner, we said our goodbyes to My Uncle and his family and continued to wander around San Ma Lo.  We were there right in time for the Macao Light Festival. Various historical sites where adorned with beautiful light effects. It also included lights and sounds shows projected on buildings.  Suffice to say, after all the walking, we were once again hungry when we got back to the hotel.  During our first night while searching for a place to eat past midnight, we passed a food stall where there was a group of people. It got us curious. So the following night, we went there to check what they were serving. And to our excitement, it was a hotpot stall.  It was then that I realized that the stuff we had at Travessa Se is called a hotpot.  The stall, Wing Kee Beef Offal has a large selection to choose from.  Saying that we liked it would be the understatement of the century. We went back the following night and we spent the whole day thinking about it. Thinking about it even now. 


Wing Kee Beef Offal. Spot Auntie
For our second day, we set off for Coloane Island.  We were based in Macau Peninsula which is in the north. Coloane is in the south so we left the hotel at 10am, even before we had breakfast. Well, Auntie had her egg tarts. It took us almost an hour to get there because we needed to change buses.  We were hungry! But there was nothing to worry about. The quaint village is home to the famous Lord Stow Bakery

Tip No. 12:  When researching a place, especially restaurants, check out vlogs. With the videos, you really get a visual of what to expect.  One of the vlogs I’ve seen as part of my research was that of Thai lady who featured Lord Stow’s Garden Cafe in Coloane. The restaurant gives-off a European ambiance. Because it was December when we went there, the poinsettias were in bloom.  Aside from the good food which satisfied our HUNGER (malaking gutom), most of the staff are Filipinos who are long-term Macau residents. They made ordering very easy because they knew what would suit the taste of their kababayans and at the same time allow visitors like us to still have a taste of Macau. It was also like as if we were chatting with long lost friends.  An added bonus was they were able to tell us where else we can go. But my heart got broken when I learned that the pandas I wanted to visit were moved back to China two weeks prior to our arrival.  Sad.  Well at least, we still got to visit the set of Princess Hours to Auntie’s delight.


Para sa MALAKING GUTOM
For the rest of the afternoon, we went back to Macau Peninsula and checked out other sites like the A-ma Temple.  Because we came from Coloane, we’ve already done the end-to-end trip using the bus.  Dinner was at a restaurant at the side of our hotel where we sampled their roastings.  They are the equivalent of asado here in the Philippines. We really didn’t eat much because we are looking forward to our girls’ night out.  Funny thing was, after dressing up and checking out hotels and the Fisherman’s Wharf, we decided to cap the night at our favorite hotpot stall, Wing Kee Beef Offal. Imagine us, fancily dressed with a bit of make-up, queuing with very hungry men at the stall. They were probably wondering why we were there instead of being in the hip and trendy bars of hotels.  We love hotpot!


We couldn't resist this
Photo from Auntie

For our last day, we slept most of the morning then checked out of the hotel.  Our flight out was at night so we spent the rest of the day at the Venetian Macao.

Tip No. 13:  Cheap food is contextual.  If you are in a rather upscale place like The Venetian Macao, food at the food court is cheaper than having them in the restaurants.  But in reality, they aren’t really cheap compared to their regular price elsewhere.  This was why we really didn’t eat that much when we were there and the place was packed. So after an hour or so of wandering around The Venetian, we decided to go straight to the airport and spend the rest of our time there.

Before I end the food portion, here’s another related tip.

Tip No. 14:  If traveling with company, set a common fund especially if you will split the costs.  At the start of the trip, we have set aside a budget to cover our food, transportation and miscellaneous expenses.  Auntie was the custodian.  In this manner, you don’t have to compute and split everything onsite whenever you need to pay something.

The Sites

One thing you need to know about me and Auntie.  There are some people who would go to a place and make sure that their photos were taken so they can tell other people that they’ve been there. Auntie and I are not among those people. That’s why we click when we travel together. We love to go to a place to know more about it, get a feel of the place.  You will even see us talking to locals to get a better appreciation of the area we are visiting.  We know when to stop and smell the roses. That being said, our trip was free and easy.

Ruins of St Paul's Cathedral in daylight.
Spot Auntie.
Although we have organized every other detail of the trip (hotel, budget), our itinerary was flexible. Yes, there were places we would love to visit but we agreed that we will not make our trip an amazing race.  If we enjoyed a spot, we lingered. If we dind’t fancy a place, we didn’t stay long.  That’s why it’s important to travel with someone who knows you and you also know.  It was an added bonus that we have an almost similar take on most things.  In things we differed, we compromised.


At the back of The Ruins
Photo from Auntie
We spent most of our time at the city center where the historical sites are.  No trip to Macau will be complete without visiting the Ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral. Unlike most tourists who are already satisfied with having their photos taken in front of the ruins, we actually went to the back to study the information that they had there. We also visited St. Dominic’s Church to say a little prayer of thanks.  We went around the Senado Square and one thing we really enjoyed was checking the little alleys around San Ma Lo.


Senado Square in daylight
Photo from Auntie
We were fortunate to be there when they were having the Macao Light Festival.  It was quite a sight.  Senado Square was covered with a canopy of lights. It was like the stars were just within our reach.  There were also light shows projected on buildings like The Ruins. 


Senado Square at nighttime
Photo from Auntie
The Ruins at nighttime
We also went to A-ma Temple and the Moorish Baracks.  I also mentioned earlier that we went to Coloane where we got a feel of the old Macau. We went around and checked the old colonial houses.  And of course, we visited the set location of Princess Hours.



Chapel of St. Francis Xavier
Photo from Auntie
A night around Macau inside a moving vehicle is already an experience.  It was a city full of lights especially in the areas of the hotels and casinos.  On our second night, My Uncle picked us up from our hotel and then we proceeded to Coloane to pick up his family then back to city center for our dinner. It was a good way to get an overview of Macau.  Another must see in Macau at night is the Light and Water Show in front of Wynn Macau.  The hotel also has another treat inside, the Dragon and Prosperity Tree.

Video Courtesy of Youtube

But the one place I really wanted to go to was the Fisherman's Wharf. It was supposed to be a theme park of sorts with various areas showcasing attractions like replica of the Roman Colosseum, various hotels and entertainment areas.  It was like being in Europe. When we went there, the place was well lit up but almost deserted save for some visitors like us.  But from what I understand, the place is undergoing major improvements. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the peace and quiet it provided.  It was a beautiful place. 


When in Roam
Tip No. 15:  Google Maps is a good tool. Aside from watching vlogs, I also study Google Maps to familiarize myself with the place. I study the directions in street view mode.  I remember landmarks. So for that last night, we walked to Wynn Macau, took a taxi to the Fisherman’s Wharf and walked back to our hotel.  I’ve told you earlier that Auntie and I have different risks appetites. I do not mind getting a bit lost in a foreign country while this would scare Auntie out of her wits.  The walk back to the hotel was long. So, looking a bit worried, Auntie asked me if I knew where we were going so I reassuringly told her, “Yes, I remember seeing Chinese characters in fancy lights!” FYI, Macau is full of those. But since I have already familiarized myself using Google Maps, we got back to our hotel safe and sound.  And even had another round of our favorite hotpot!

Here’s an additional tip.

Tip No. 16:  You can travel around Macau (at least the hotel route) for free.  You just need to know which shuttle you have to take. Casinos and hotels offer free shuttle busses. Sometimes you just need to line up.  Pick up and drop off points are the airport and ferry terminal.  That was how we got to the airport.  Our hotel has a free shuttle to the ferry terminal.  From the ferry terminal, we took the Venetian shuttle.  And then, we took the Galaxy shuttle to the airport.


I saw the sign!
Tip No. 17:  If you expect to spend a number of hours in a place, make sure to know where the working restrooms are.  Seriously, I don’t think you would want to spend most of your time worrying about finding a restroom because you really had to pee. Imagine the feeling.  That’s why always include restrooms in my research.

The People

Honesly, Macau is full of tourists.  And for Auntie and me, the locals we got to interact with were our expatriate kababayans. It was our kababayans who made the trip easy and pleasurable for us.  My Uncle would be the best example.  Aside from being a demanding heartthrob (joke!) / kung-fu master, he has a regular job at a hotel and runs his own business. Every now and then, he plays a tour guide to our visiting kababayans.  On top of that, he has a family to attend to.  You can just imagine how busy and tired he usually is.  But despite that, he still insisted on picking us up from the airport no matter how late we arrived. He even did adjustments in his schedule so we can spend the following night with his family. He was actually even intent on chauffeuring us back to the airport but we declined since we know he was busy and because I wanted Auntie to experience the free shuttle buses in Macau.  The trip was also a good opportunity for My Uncle and me to reconnect.  He’s been based there for more than five years already and married to a local.  I think we made him miss the Philippines. He actually came home for a short visit early this year.  


Spider Dad and Spider Boy
In almost every place we went, we met a kababayan. In our hotel alone, several of the staff were Filipinos especially the lobby security.  They were our guide. They gave us directions on where to eat and which buses to take.  They really took care of us. When we were about to board the shuttle after check out, they loaded our baggage for us and made sure that these were safely stowed.  It was also fun chatting with them.

At Coloane, aside from the staff at Lord Stow’s Café, we also met a Filipina dog walker. We had a long chat with her and she shared with us her experiences and insights about living in Macau.  We also talked about the coming Christmas holiday. We were glad to learn that her boss regularly gives her the time-off during the holidays so she can celebrate the season with her family. We also met a team of Filipinos handling the maintenance of the electricity in the area. We actually had a good laugh because they didn’t realize earlier that I am a Filipina and they were thinking of what to tell me when I asked for directions.  When I spoke in Filipino complete with my San Pablena inflection, we all laughed and, again, had a quick chat.  


I think this one's a lion pretending to be a dog
Photo from Auntie
One of the experiences in Macau that I will never forget was the special treatment we got every time our kababayans in the service industry learned that we are Filipinos. For example, when we arrived at the ferry terminal, we had quite a number of bags with us and we were wondering how to deal with them given that we will be riding the free shuttle.  One of the guys in charge of the shuttle called us, he shouted, “Kabayan!” Then he told us to ride the bus and he will take care of our luggage.  When we got down the shuttle, he told us to stay at one side and wait while he retrieves our things.  He also gave us directions to the hotel’s left luggage area. When we went to the left luggage counter, we were having some language barrier issues with one of the attendants. Then suddenly we heard another person call us, “Kabayan!” He took over the other guy. We had a short chat and asked us where we will be going next once we’ve retrieved our stuff. We said we would be heading to the airport after. He gave us directions on where we can catch the shuttle that would take us to the airport. And he told us that he would make sure that our luggage were transferred to the counter near the airport shuttle. And sure enough we got back our luggage with no hassle.

To sum it up, it was amazing that we traveled to another country but came home with a better understanding and appreciation of our kababayans. We will be forever thankful to the Macau Filipino expatriate community.  It’s no wonder that Macau is one of the foreign places I’ll never get tired visiting. As I am writing this, I am thinking of going back this December. Of course, provided that I get to book a round trip all in fare ticket for about Php3,000!

The Umbrella

This first time I went to Macau, the obligatory umbrella shot had The Ruins as a background. This time around I had it at Coloane Village and I call it Princess (Sarah) Hours!


Princess (Sarah) Hours
Up Next

Manila, Manila, Simply No Place Like Manila




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